Picture yourself in Afghanistan in 2002, approximately one year after U.S. troops stormed the country and knocked out the Taliban. Sounds like a pretty dangerous place, right?
Now picture yourself walking across Afghanistan, vulnerable not just to political vagaries, but to unknown terrain, wintertime elements, and bad food and the ill effects it casts on your body. That was the endeavor undertaken by Scotsman Rory Stewart and reported in his book, The Places in Between.
I admit to knowing little about Afghanistan other than it being a mountainous nation that has been at war for decades and grows lots of poppies for the drug trade. Stewart changed all that.
Here in the U.S. the dispatches we hear from Afghanistan focus on wartime skirmishes. And to be sure, that aspect plays a part in Stewart’s book. But the author paints such a rich picture of the people and the everyday hardships they face, some war-related, some not.
Traveling from village to village, he was able to count on the hospitality of his Afghan hosts. Sometimes with a warm welcome and sometimes reluctantly, they took him in and housed and fed him. He did pay a price for his daily bread (sometimes all there was to eat) and meat—a stomach ailment that left him weak, but still able to continue the trek.
His account of his journey from the city of Herat, near the Iranian border, to the capital of Kabul is an utterly fascinating story. He carried only a walking stick, the clothes on his back, and a backpack with some basic foodstuffs. Most of his trip was done solo, with the exception of times he was accompanied, following local traditions, by guides who walked with him to the next village.
Though warned countless times that the trip was too dangerous, he forged on, refusing rides from well-meaning (and perhaps not so well-meaning) troops and international medical personnel. Stewart did make one concession to safety, choosing to take a shorter but more meteorologically treacherous mountain route and eschewing a better traveled road that could pose more political danger. That resulted in only a few reports of his feeling threatened by Taliban sympathizers, but many passages that detail the need to slog through two-foot deep snow fields.
The Places in Between has little to do with our world of television interviews, new product pitches, and podcasts. It is, quite simply, an eye-opening story about a country—and its people—with which all Americans should familiarize themselves.